Before I first visited Dubai two decades ago, I imagined it to be little more than Disneyland in the desert. How wrong I was. What I discovered was some of the world’s best beachside hotels enjoying year-round sunshine – and a mere seven-hour flight away.
These days it’s a little more surreal, with its futuristic skyscrapers and unusual attractions, such as an Emirates A380 ‘superjumbo’ covered in half a million blooms at Dubai Miracle Garden, as well as the Dubai Frame – the world’s biggest building in the shape of a photo frame.
Over the years I’ve done it all, from ascending the 2,722ft (828m) Burj Khalifa – the world’s tallest construction – to diving into the planet’s deepest pool, Deep Dive Dubai, which plunges nearly 200ft (60m).
More recently, it’s the food that’s impressed. Dubai’s dining scene has exploded, with 19 Michelin-starred restaurants and counting. Little wonder the city welcomed a staggering 18.2 million international visitors last year (that’s more than Paris).
The Dubai Miracle Garden is just one of the many attractions the destination now offers
But all these years on this constantly evolving Emirate still has some of the best beachside hotels anywhere.
Here are my favourites…
Jumeirah Beach Hotel – Best for families
It was this wave-shaped hotel by a white-sand beach that convinced me Dubai is a superb family-friendly destination. Everything revolves around children, from the free food for under-4s (over-4s are charged half price) to complimentary access to the excellent Wild Wadi Waterpark next door.
Jumeirah Beach Hotel is an excellent family-friendly option
There is also a free kids’ club and one of the pools is families only. Rooms are spacious with fantastic sea views.
TOP TIP: Ocean Club Rooms have access to a lounge with toys, plus free afternoon tea, and evening canapes/drinks.
BOOK IT: A week’s B&B with flights from £1,416pp based on a family of four (kuoni.co.uk).
One&Only Royal Mirage – Best for serenity
One of the four pools at the One&Only
This oasis of calm has the pick of the beachfront locations, comprising three hotels rolled into one along half a mile of sand. Expect Arabian touches – such as arches, high-domed roofs, courtyards and bowls filled with floating rose petals.
There are four pools and eight restaurants. At sunset, head to the Jetty Lounge and sit with your feet in the sand, savouring the mezze and a sundowner.
TOP TIP: Take a free boat transfer to One&Only The Palm to dine in the excellent 101 Restaurant.
BOOK IT: Six nights’ half-board with flights from £1,264pp (ba.com).
Mama Shelter – Best for fun lovers
This hotel is playful, with cartoon character masks on beds and quirky messages written on bathroom mirrors in lipstick.
Some of the otherwise minimalist bedrooms have views of the Burj Khalifa. The public areas are in bright colours and a DJ spins tunes at a speakeasy-style bar.
The colourful decor of the restaurant shows off the playful side of the Mama Shelter
There’s no beach but the hotel has four pools plus an outdoor cinema.
TOP TIP: Catch the thrilling nearby La Perle show, with aerial/aquatic feats.
BOOK IT: Seven nights’ room-only with flights from £998pp (booking.com).
Bab Al Shams Resort – Best for desert adventures
Designed like an Arabian fort, this resort is a 45-minute drive from the city. On the edge of the Al Marmoom Desert Conservation Reserve, it offers four-wheel-drive desert safaris, horse riding, camel trekking, hiking and fat-bike rides.
Pools are set around palm trees. Rooms are rustic in style with a Moorish influence. Dine beneath the stars while watching a belly-dancing show.
TOP TIP: Take in a falconry exhibition.
BOOK IT: Seven nights’ B&B with flights from £1,088pp (travelrepublic.co.uk).
The Lana – Best for refined elegance
This is The Dorchester’s little sister, designed by Foster + Partners. It might not be by the beach, but its Business Bay location means it most certainly commands superb skyscraper views.
There’s a lovely rooftop pool and a Dior spa. Rooms are beautifully designed.
Enjoy the elegance of the Dorchester in Dubai at The Lana
TOP TIP: Afternoon tea is a treat.
BOOK IT: Six nights’ room-only with flights from £3,448pp (emiratesholidays.com).
Lapita Hotel – Best for the theme parks
Featuring staff in Hawaiian shirts, this Polynesian-themed hotel has rooms in low-rise blocks with coconut-scented corridors, a lazy river, two pools and a spa.
It’s close to Legoland and the waterparks of Dubai Parks and Resorts, as well as the Hollywood-inspired Motiongate park and Real Madrid World.
TOP TIP: Try the T-Rex Adventure Cafe at Riverland.
BOOK IT: Five nights’ half-board with flights from £999pp (travelbag.co.uk).
Atlantis the Palm – Best for its aquarium
On a man-made series of islands called The Palm, Atlantis, The Palm has a red-brick façade with a striking central arch. This 1,500-room hotel is themed on the underwater world, and has a huge aquarium.
The Atlantis’s aquarium can be enjoyed from the comfort of your bathroom
You get complimentary access to adjacent Aquaventure, with its lazy rivers and Leap of Faith water plunge. Best rooms overlook the aquarium. Restaurants include Gordon Ramsay’s Bread Street Pizza and Nobu.
TOP TIP: Pay for a diving package in the aquarium.
BOOK IT: Six nights’ room-only with flights from £1,231pp (teletextholidays.co.uk).
Address Beach Resort – Best for its infinity pool
This resort has one of the world’s highest outdoor infinity pools, set within a building – up on its 77th floor. The sleek rooms are contemporary in design. Restaurants range from Mediterranean to Uzbek and Chinese. The beach is close by.
The Address boasts the ultimtae pool with a view
TOP TIP: Visit the Edge Walk at its sister hotel, the Address Sky View, for a thrilling stroll on its glass walkway and a bird’s eye view of downtown Dubai.
BOOK IT: Three nights’ B&B with flights from £730pp (destination2.co.uk).
Al Maha – Best for romance
Designed to look like a Bedouin village, Al Maha, a Luxury Collection Desert Resort & Spa, is a place to relax amid desert dunes – where ‘tented’ villas come with easels, art materials and binoculars.
Each has its own pool. Dine in the evening looking out across the desert, perhaps spotting a gazelle or Arabian oryx as stars twinkle above.
Dine out with a desert view at the romantic Al Maha
TOP TIP: It’s too hot during our summer – go at other times.
BOOK IT: Five nights’ full-board with flights from £2,380pp (kenwoodtravel.co.uk).
Al Seef Heritage Hotel – Best for ‘old Dubai’
In the Al Seef heritage district – close to the creek around which Dubai grew up, with its colourful markets – this hotel consists of ten interconnected houses with arched doorways and communal courtyards. Rustic-chic rooms have stone floors, wooden ceilings and antique-style furniture. Buggy transfers take you to the pool, spa and gym at Canopy by Hilton Dubai.
The Al Seef is full of rustic charm as befits its location in the heritage district
TOP TIP: Dine at the excellent Al Khayma Heritage Restaurant around the corner.
BOOK IT: Seven nights’ room-only with flights from £905pp (destination2.co.uk).
One&Only One Za’abeel – Best for weekend brunches
With its infinity pool atop the world’s longest cantilevered building, this is a lively spot at weekends. Locals flock for brunch and a dip with great city views. Dining options include a Japanese/Med restaurant and the Michelin-starred La Dame de Pic. Luxuriate in the three-floor spa.
TOP TIP: There’s a peaceful fourth floor pool set in a Bali-inspired garden.
BOOK IT: Five nights’ B&B with flights from £1,349pp (travelbag.co.uk).
Siro One Za’abeel – Best for the health conscious
This is in the same building as One&Only One Za’abeel, but has rooms in the middle floors, not the top.
A good night’s rest and healthy living are the focus at Siro One Za’abeel
It feels like a posh gym with rooms. Pick up a protein shake at check-in. Expect cool, minimalist rooms that include meditation playlists and yoga mats. The gym includes cycle, yoga and pilates studios with free classes. Restaurants have healthy options.
TOP TIP: The in-house nutritionist will draw up an eating plan for you.
BOOK IT: Six nights’ room-only with flights from £1,249pp (ba.com).
Mazmi Casa – Best for B&B
Expect great coffee at this three-room B&B run by a couple above their cafe in the spice market by Dubai Creek.
Each room is beautifully decorated with wooden floors and fabrics from the market. One has a glass-fronted bathroom, which can be closed off with curtains, in the house’s traditional wind tower. Breakfast is served in the cafe, with home-baked cakes and croissants, and eggs as you like them.
TOP TIP: Take a foodie tour of the markets (fryingpanadventures.com).
BOOK IT: B&B doubles from £99pp (booking.com).
